Winterization Checklist

Winterizing can be a very important part of your boating season.  Though it may often be a very sad time, it just means that you are protecting your boat so you can have just as much fun in the next season.

For some people, the only part of winterizing that needs to be done to their boats is to wash them, these are the lucky ones that live in the south that have a never ending boating season.  For others, it can mean hauling the boat out of the water and shrink wrapping it to protect it from the snow that will be falling for the next few months.

I recently received a checklist from one of the boating websites that had some good tips on it.  Here is a rundown of the list as well as some additions from myself.


Fuel System: Replace the fuel filter then fill your boat's fuel tank and add the proper amount of stabilizer to the tank.  Be sure to run the engine for a few minutes after to make sure that the fuel stabilizer is spread throughout the engine.  Some will argue that it is best to completely drain the tank for winter, I respectfully disagree though.  With more space available in the fuel tank, it will of course have more room for air.  With the rising and falling of the temperatures almost every day, this will create a prime environment for condensation to form.  Come summer, you will have water sitting at the bottom of the tank that will be very difficult to remove that is going to cause major problems with your engine for the first few outings.

Flush: Flush your motor by using a set or earmuffs or using the fresh water connection if it has one.  This is a necessary step but may be combined with the above step if you plan on running your engine out of the water to move the stabilizer around.

Fog: With your engine running, spray fogging oil into the carburetor intakes (or the air intake if its fuel injected). Many mechanics say to do this last as this may kill the engine.  While the engine is running, spray the fogging oil in until the engine dies.  Its best to idle the engine up because the slightest amount of fogging oil may cause it to quit depending on the engine.  You will know that it is working with the white cloud coming out of the exhaust while in progress.   If the engine does not sputter and quit, you can just turn it off at the ignition, not all will die.  The next step can sometimes be a hassle if you are winterizing an inboard. On an inboard, the spark plugs are not always very accessible, so this may be your last step.  With outboards, this next step is very simple.  Remove each spark plug and spray a little fogging oil into each cylinder.  If its possible to do by hand, slowly spin the flywheel to coat the inside of the cylinder walls.  Fogging will help keep the insides of the engine lubricated during the off season.

Plugs: If possible, check your spark plugs for excessive carbon build up and replace them if they need.  While re installing the plugs, only torque them down to the manufactures specifications and be sure not to over tighten.  Some mechanics will advise not to reconnect the spark plug wires, i'm not too sure why they would advise this.  Someone help me out if you know.

Drain: For inboard owners, be sure to drain the block of any remaining water after you disconnect the flush kit.  Any remaining water could potentially freeze and crack the engine block.  The addition of antifreeze is something that you will have to decide for yourself, some owners like to do it and others dont.

Adding Antifreeze to the Block: If you choose to add antifreeze to the block to take the place of the water, it is a very simple step.  It is best if there are two people but if you are alone it is still doable.  Run by your local marine supply and pick up a winterizing kit if you dont already have one as well as some marine and RV antifreeze, most will use 3-4 gallons.  It is important to use the marine and RV antifreeze as it is environmentally friendly and will not hurt anything when you start up the first time next season.  Most winterizing systems will work like this.  Fill the container with the antifreeze.  The system will come with a short piece of hose that will allow you to use your regular earmuffs on the lower unit. Open the valve on the container to start the flow of liquid and then start the engine.  Run the engine until the water coming out of the exhaust is pink, this will ensure that all of the water is out and all that is left is antifreeze.  Be sure not to let the engine run dry, this can cause an expensive problem with the impeller and water pump.  Always shut the engine off before the antifreeze is gone.    

Engine Oil:  Change the engine oil and filter as recommended by the engine's manufacturer.

Air Filter: If you boat is equipped with an air filter, be sure to either clean or replace the filter.

Lubricate: Go through and lubricate all parts that require lubrication such as throttle cables, linkages, and zerk fittings.  If there are signs of wear or damage, either replace the part now or put it on the list for things to do before the start of the next season.

Prop and Shaft: Be sure to inspect the prop shaft and prop by removing the prop.  Check for fishing line or other things that may be wrapped around the shaft that could cause damage.  Lubricate the prop shaft liberally with a marine grade grease before putting the prop back on.

Anode(s): Check your anodes and make sure that they are still in good condition.  If they are less than 2/3 their original size, it is time to replace them.

Battery: Check your battery to ensure that the water levels are correct if necessary, some batteries do not require service.  If the battery does need water, be sure to only use distilled water.  Water with minerals can damage the cells over time. Check the terminals and be sure that there is not any corrosion.  If there is, use a stiff wire brush to remove it and put a coating of grease on to protect the terminals.   If you will be storing your boat in a place that does not have power, remove the battery and take it home to keep it fully charged.  If you will be storing your boat where there is power, buy a good quality battery charger to keep the battery fully charged.  The battery charger is very important as some work in very different ways.  It is best to have one that trickle charges and exercises the battery.  These will charge the battery, let it drain a little, then recharge the battery to keep it in top condition.